Wired USB Keyboard/Mouse to Bluetooth bridge (HID Relay)
Year ago I was so desperate to convert my beloved mechanical keyboard to wireless (most built-in ones do not have the kind of right tactile feel I wanted) so I was damn close to building an embedded wireless HID/keyboard on my own (there’s a Hackaday Tutorial for HC-05). Now Handheld Scientific makes it.
Basically Windows is making a diary of every single folder/filenames you’ve visited in chronological order. Just learned about something called ShellBag while using NTlite to slipstream Windows. WTF!
Parents can run a scan with ShellBag Analyzer in their family computer and see what their teenager has been up to!
Everybody should first disable this feature by running this registry settings (or manually creating the DWORD entry and set it to 1) which you can download and execute below:
Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00
[HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Classes\Local Settings\Software\Microsoft\Windows\Shell]
"BagMRU Size"=dword:00000001
Sometimes Windows recovery mode do not have the ‘Startup Repair’ option like this below
I don’t know under what condition it won’t show up (sometimes I plug the system drive to be repaired in a computer, it shows up, at least for Windows 2008 R2), but you can selection Command Prompt (always available) and go to X:\sources\recovery and run startrep.exe to launch the repairing tool.
I’ve bought many powered USB hubs, even the expensive industrial version like Startech, but they never work reliably when I connect multiple devices that draws quite a bit of power. The behavior is the same (erratic when too many power drawing devices are active within one hub) whether I supply the hub with external power or not.
I suspected the USB hubs wasn’t wired in a way that the USB hub controller understands that I want to have the hub self-powered (powered from an external source like a wall wart instead of drawing the 5V from the USB upstream cable). So I opened up my StarTech and it looked like this:
On the top left corner, there’s a jumper to set the USB hub to use self-powered instead of bus-powered (default out of the box). I switched the jumpers and the board no longer takes power from the upstream bus and the lights won’t light up until I have the local power connected, which confirms it’s working as a self-powered hub.