Tektronix TDS 500~800 series Color CRT adjustments

For TDS 500~800 series, a batch of CRT driver boards, color and mono, regardless of how heavily they are used, have bad flyback transformers. After turning the unit on continuously for half a day, the screen might stretch and disappear.

If you have a matching CRT driver board with a CRT tube, I recommend instead of swapping the CRT driver (seemed more straightforward), extract the flyback transformer from the donor board instead. The reason is that the adjustments needed from replacing the flyback transformer is far less than re-tuning a different CRT driver board to match the tube.

It’s impossible to tune the CRT driver board while it is in the case, since the processor board covers it during operation (unless you have special cables for the Acq/Proc interface to replace the interconnect PCB card), it’s done ex-vivo like this:

I bought a ribbon cable extender and built a 2-pin jumper extender by salvaging them from CRT driver boards with toasted flyback transformers:

The first thing to check for is the +21V which is used to generate many voltages across the board (pun intended here): it affects brightness, scale, offset and linearity everywhere. If there’s any adjustments to be made, this need to be done first.

This voltage can be tapped by hooking the positive (red) lead to the center (output) pin of LM317 (3-pin linear regulator) at U90. If you have an alligator clip instead of a grabber, you can also hook it up to ‘pin 4’, which is the body of the regulator.

You can pick many spots for the ground pin. Since I’m using a grabber, I’d pick another big 3-pin IC sitting on a heatsink for the ground lead. In this case, it’s Q10, the transistor that drives the flyback transformer. It’s the pin nearest to the short edge of the board (behind the red lead, sorry):

Here’s a picture of blank board showing how many trimpots are there:

Only the brightness and contrast dials are documented in the service manual. The rest, I had to locate them in the schematic one by one.  Before that, I kind of figured out most of them by trial-and-error but had a few of them wrong, especially the voltages (there are three: +21V, screen and HV adj.): they all have the same effect. There are also some more obscure trims like center focus and horizontal focus (variable inductor). Now I know exactly what each dial does.

It’s hell of a lot of work to figure this out. I have some new old stock CRT straight from Tektronix at Beaverton, and it’s the reserve to support customers who bought color TDS 500~800 units from me. Almost all used units out there have problems (or going to have problems soon), and so far I’m the only one selling units with 1 year warranty (extendable to 3 years for extra).

If your unit is not under warranty included when you bought from me, and want one of these new color CRT tubes with shutter, I’ll almost require you to send your unit to me for installation unless you can guarantee that you can figure it out without my help. It’s $500 full-service with the tube included. Call me at 949-682-8145.

 

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MSI-based installer silent install summary

Recently I need to reorder the pre-req installation for a InstallShield installer package that has pre-reqs and MSI inside it. That means I’ll have to extract all the pre-req EXE and MSI files and write batch files to call them, then the installer again for the core software, all done silently.

I learned:

  • Administrative install (/a switch) only extracts the core firmware, not the pre-req files
  • /b”<target-folder>” extracts the pre-reqs as .prq files
  • Need to steal the extracted .exe files by monitoring temporary folder as they go
  • /s doesn’t always silent installs. Some with MSI packed inside the .exe files requires the ‘silent’ request passed to the MSI by adding /v/qn (/v passes the switch to the MSI, which is /qn, which means silent in this case)
  • .NET before v2.0 requires different switches to install without prompting for license agreement, namely
    /q:a /c:"install /q"

     

 

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Remove McAfee Enterprise Antivirus from Windows

I was asked to install McAfee Enterprise Antivirus v8.8 as a favor to somebody else’s client, turns out this piece of 5h1t is a nightmare.

After I installed the agent, the main software won’t proceed to install. I looked up error code 1603 in the MSI log and upgraded a fresh Windows XP to SP3 and updated Windows Installer to 4.5, set the time back (somebody suggested potential certificate problem) and it still fails.

Without being compensated for my time, I gave up and tried to uninstall it through Add/Remove programs. Now the uninstaller complained that the program cannot be uninstalled in managed mode. Normally, I’m quite understanding towards programmers since their job is wrestling complexities, but this time there is no excuse: if you add an item in Add/Remove programs, people are expected to be able to uninstall it directly from there by definition!

After some digging, being unable to uninstall McAfee is a known common problem. The IT-crowd at University of Oregon has written an article with the solution. It boils down to running:

C:\Program Files (x86)\McAfee\Common Framework\frminst.exe /remove=agent

I bet even stoners are more competent packaging the software for release! How much productivity across the world they have drained by shipping out an incompetent software bad as malware!

Stay away from McAfee. Won’t install it even if they pay me $8k. Refuse to service anything McAfee without charging an exorbitant sum, or you won’t make your lost time back.

 

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Python 3 Scientific Installation To-do List

Although I am a big fan of MATLAB, it’s time for me to really try out Python so I can fairly compare the pros and cons of both languages.

The first tiny hurdle for Python is its scattered installation process for Windows. I thought Python(x,y) will give me everything in one place, but turns out the Spyder is stuck in Python 2.7. To install Python 3.7, I’ll need to do it from scratch. Here are the steps:

  1. Download official Python 3. You will need that for the “pip” package manager located in {python37}/scripts
  2. Update PIP first to avoid complaints. You can run it anywhere in command prompt
    python -m pip install --upgrade pip
    You don’t call PIP to update PIP because you an executable cannot write itself in WindowsNote that for 32-bit Python, you might run into Python37\python.exe: No module named pip, so you might want to use ensurepip to bootstrap: python -m ensurepip
  3. Now I’ll need Spyder3, a MATLAB-like IDE. Qt5 is one of the pre-req:
    pip install PyQt5
  4. And finally Spyder3
    pip install Spyder
    pip does not install icons in your start menu. So I’ll need to manually create a shortcut
    {Python37}/Scripts/spyder3.exe
    .py files are not associated with Spyder3 (normally it’ll just directly run the python script with python3). I usually manually change the association in Windows to Sypder3.
  5. PyVISA is the analog of “Instrument Control Toolbox” in MATLAB.
    pip install pyvisa
    MATLAB’s Instrument Control Toobox also cover serial ports, which is done in Python by PySerial
    pip install PySerial
  6. Numpy is included with scipy:
    pip install scipy
  7. Turns out that only NumPy and IPython is installed with SciPy, not the entire ecosystem.
    pip install pandas
    pip install matplotlib
    If you know the power of dataset/table objects in MATLAB like I do, you’ll jump for dataframes in panadas.
  8. SymPy, the analog of MATLAB’s symoblic math toolbox, needs to be installed separately
    pip install sympy
  9. IPython gives the ‘notebook’ feel in Mathematica, MathCAD and Maple, where the returned results are directly pasted in the same area where your command/syntax is. I rarely cared for it because I usually want the max visual real estate for my plots.

Update: I tried Anaconda (2019.03, Python 3.7.3 x64) which supposedly have everything in one place, but the Spyder it included crashes right out of the box. Jyupter is confusing as it relies on the web-browser to render the results. Feels patchy and doesn’t look like it adds more than the steps above. Uninstalled it without hesitation.

Update: To update the packages, tack -U switch at the end of each of the above pip install commands. Remember to follow the order of dependencies (e.g. update PyQt5 before Spyder)

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TDS 500~800 series Monochrome CRT Driver Repair

The most common mode of CRT display failure in the TDS 500~800 series (Monochrome models) is the flyback transformer. The symptom is that after leaving the screen on for a couple of hours, the screen started stretching vertically until it disappears.

It also happens the failure only happens to a batch of CRT boards. The batch I’ve seen looks new (with modern markings that tells you the purpose of the trimpots) and lightly used, so I’m sure it’s infant mortality. Here’s the broken CRT driver board to be repaired:

There’s practically nowhere you can find this obsolete replacement because it’s not a common configuration. I sourced a batch from China that claimed the part number, and I spent whole day cursing the vendor when the flyback transformer arrived. Here’s what I saw:

The one on the right was the broken original flyback transformer, and two on the left were my new orders. Not only that the shapes are completely different, the number of pins doesn’t even match. WTF?!!!

The seller told me that it works. Forget about how to fit that in the board for a moment. How the f*** am I supposed to know which pins goes to which spot? Not to mention there are 11 dots when the original only has 8+1 (actually 7+1, pin#8 is not used). I said dots instead of pins because not all of them are populated with a pin, and the pins that are missing were not even consistent across the transformers in the batch.

I cannot even guess with a multimeter because it’s not a simple, uniform transformer. Even if I know which ones are connected, I could have ruined the whole thing by having the wrong number of coil turns/inductances because I switched a pair or two!

I had to push the seller really hard for him to dig up the actual mapping and draw me the pinouts on the pictures I’ve sent him (I’m sure the whole batch will be trash if I could not communicate with them in Chinese). The ‘product’ must have been designed and the manufacturing line ran by a bunch of village idiots. Nothing is right about it other than the windings inside are electrically usable (can’t even say compatible because I need to hack it really hard to get the correct display). Here’s the pinout:

Here’s another transformer that doesn’t have the ground pin (unnumbered), turns out the transformer works without it:

The space inside the oscilloscope case is pretty tight, and I managed to find one orientation that lines up with the case nicely, but it’s ugly as hell:

I held it down with hot-glue, caulk to stabilize it. A rubber band was put over it so that if the glue fails, the transformer won’t roll inside the compartment causing mayhem (later units I used cable ties since rubber band might deteriorate with heat. You get the idea.):

If you are not a hobbyist and don’t want the hassle of disassembling whole bunch of stuff just to take out the CRT driver, rebuild it with the said flyback transformer and re-tuning the CRT driver (not only it’s a huge pain, the working room is very tight if you don’t have the extension cables), I recommend sending the unit to me for a full CRT surgery (you pay for shipping costs both ways). I also charge a lot less if you combine it with other services such as re-capping (strengthening), NVRAM replacement, etc, in one trip.

Update (2023/07/02): the prices 6 years ago is no longer practical. Luckily nobody asked. This surgery is just way too much hassle to charge this little. If you have a big customer who really need to keep exactly the same model to avoid changing their process/certification/software, ask me for a spot quote. I usually give very generous combined discounts if there’s more than one thing to work on.

I don’t think anybody else have new compatible flyback transformers for these displays that has the same fate anymore. I’ll update this post when the ones I saved are used up.

Call me at 949-682-8145.

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